India, April 11 -- Less than an hour after landing at a remote airstrip, we're having sundowners en route to the lodge. A troop of dozens - perhaps a hundred - baboons returns to the trees around us to roost for the night. A nosy kudu slowly circles our makeshift camp. Chatty squirrels chitter away in the branches above our heads. We sip our gin and tonics and watch as the Okavango Delta settles into dusk. So it goes on safari in Botswana.

We hop back into the jeep and make for Vumbura Plains, our home for the next few nights, passing elephants under trees and lechwe antelope spread across the flooded plains. But interestingly, it's not the wildlife that captivates me on the ride. It's the water.

Here's why this Botswana night safari ex...