Uganda, Feb. 21 -- When we moved out of Kampala and into the sticks we discovered a small patisserie in the neighbourhood. The bread was so-so, but it was oven-fresh, baked in a back room. Whenever we needed to buy bread it was here that we came, and still do.

Later I discovered a small coffee shop up the road with an unassuming yet pretty decent barista and cup, which became and remains a much-visited pitstop. The bigger chains have started moving in and there is a lot more variety for shops and cafes, but the appeal of the small mom-and-pop stores remains strong.

Part of it is just plain old sentimentality and that instinct to side with the underdog. Much of it, however, is rational and even logical. Supporting the local baker means s...